12V Garden Lighting Guide
12V Garden Lighting: A Complete Guide to Low-Voltage Outdoor Lighting
12V garden lighting is a popular choice for outdoor lighting installation because it offers a practical combination of safety, flexibility, reliability and design options.
A well-planned low-voltage garden lighting system can highlight trees and planting, illuminate paths and steps, bring walls and architectural features to life, improve evening use of the garden and add discreet security lighting without making the space feel harsh or overlit.
One of the first decisions when planning outdoor lighting is which voltage to use.
For many residential garden lighting systems, 12V is an excellent option. However, the best voltage depends on the size of the garden, cable lengths, lighting load, fittings and the transformer or driver being used.
In this guide, we explain how 12V garden lighting works, the difference between 12V AC and 12V DC, how to choose transformers, how to reduce voltage drop and what to consider before starting an outdoor lighting installation.
Quick Guide – Jump to a Section
1. Understanding 12V Garden Lighting
What 12V garden lighting is, how it works and whether it is safe.
2. Advantages of 12V Garden Lighting
Why low-voltage lighting is particularly suitable for gardens.
3. Disadvantages of 12V Garden Lighting
Voltage drop, transformers and other limitations to consider.
4. 12V AC vs 12V DC
The differences between AC and DC and why choosing the correct power supply matters.
5. Choosing the Correct Transformer
How to calculate your lighting load and select the right size transformer or LED driver.
6. 12V vs 24V Garden Lighting
When 12V is suitable and when 24V may be a better option.
7. Garden Lighting Cable & Voltage Drop
Choosing cable, managing long distances and reducing voltage drop.
8. Planning Cable Routes & Ducting
Why lighting should ideally be considered before landscaping begins.
9. Waterproof Garden Lighting Connections
How good connections improve the reliability of an outdoor lighting system.
10. IP Ratings & Outdoor Protection
Understanding IP ratings and choosing fittings for different garden locations.
11. Colour Temperature – 2700K, 3000K & Beyond
Choosing the right colour of light for planting, trees and architectural features.
12. Lumens, Wattage & Brightness
How much light you actually need and why brighter isn’t always better.
13. Understanding Beam Angles
Choosing narrow and wide beams for different trees, planting and features.
14. Spike Lights vs Recessed Uplights
The advantages and disadvantages of the two most common types of garden uplight.
15. Series vs Parallel Garden Lighting
Understanding the two wiring methods and why we often favour parallel systems.
16. Installing 12V Garden Lighting Yourself
What homeowners should consider when installing a plug-and-play system.
17. Common Garden Lighting Mistakes
The problems we regularly see and how they can be avoided.
18. Is 12V Garden Lighting Worth It?
Our overall view after more than 20 years working with outdoor lighting.
19. Frequently Asked Questions
Quick answers to common questions about 12V garden lighting.
20. Garden Lighting Glossary
Simple explanations of the technical terms used throughout this guide.
21. Free Garden Lighting Advice
Send us your photographs or garden plan and we can help you choose the right system.
1. Understanding 12V Garden Lighting
What is 12V garden lighting?
12V garden lighting is a low-voltage outdoor lighting system supplied by a suitable transformer or LED driver.
The electricity supplied to a UK property is approximately 230V AC. A transformer or driver reduces this mains voltage to 12V before power is distributed around the garden through low-voltage cable.
Depending on the fittings, the system may operate at 12V AC or 12V DC. These power supplies are not automatically interchangeable, so the requirements of the lights must be checked before choosing a transformer or driver.
A typical 12V garden lighting system may operate:
● Spike spotlights
● Tree uplights
● Path lights
● Recessed lights
● Step lights
● Wall lights
● LED tape and linear lighting
● Decorative garden lights
This flexibility makes low-voltage garden lighting useful for complete lighting schemes rather than only individual outdoor lights.
Is 12V garden lighting safe?
12V garden lighting operates at a much lower voltage than the 230V mains supply, which makes it a practical choice for outdoor environments when installed correctly.
However, the transformer, mains connection, cable protection, waterproof connections and overall outdoor lighting installation must still be designed and installed properly. Low voltage does not remove the need for safe electrical work.
2. Advantages of 12V Garden Lighting
Lower voltage around the garden
One of the main advantages of a 12V system is that the lighting circuit around the garden operates at extra-low voltage rather than mains voltage.
Gardens are challenging environments for electrical equipment. Rain, irrigation, damp soil, plants, animals and gardening tools can all affect an outdoor lighting installation.
The 230V supply and transformer still need to be installed and protected correctly. Once the voltage has been reduced, however, the lighting circuit around the garden operates at a much lower voltage.
A wide choice of outdoor lighting fittings
There is a large range of professional 12V garden lighting available.
This includes small spike lights for planting, powerful tree uplights, path lights, recessed fittings, wall-mounted lights and specialist architectural fittings.
A single low-voltage system can also combine different types of light. For example, a garden might use small 2W spotlights among planting, medium-output fittings for trees and more powerful uplights for large mature trees or architectural features.
The aim is not to use the most powerful light available. Good garden lighting is about putting the right amount of light in the right place.
12V systems can be expanded
Gardens change over time.
Plants grow, trees mature, patios are extended and homeowners add pergolas, garden rooms, outdoor kitchens and seating areas.
A well-designed 12V system can often be altered or expanded relatively easily, provided the original cable, transformer capacity and system design allow for it.
When planning low-voltage garden lighting, it is worth considering how the garden may look in the future rather than designing only for its current layout.
Maintenance can be easier
Outdoor lighting eventually requires maintenance. A gardener may damage a cable, a fitting may need replacing or planting may grow around a light and require it to be repositioned.
Parallel 12V systems are useful because one failed light will not normally cause every other fitting on the circuit to stop working. This can be a significant advantage over some series installations, where one damaged or faulty light may affect the entire circuit.
Parallel systems can also make fault-finding, repairs and future changes easier.
12V works well with LED lighting
Modern LED garden lights produce impressive levels of light while using relatively little power.
This means a transformer with a modest wattage can operate a surprisingly large number of fittings, provided the total load and cable runs have been calculated correctly.
LEDs also allow the use of small, discreet fittings that disappear into planting during the day but create effective lighting after dark.
3. Disadvantages of 12V Garden Lighting
Low-voltage garden lighting has many advantages, but there are also important limitations to consider.
Voltage drop on long cable runs
Voltage drop is one of the most important considerations when designing a 12V garden lighting system.
As electricity travels along a cable, some voltage is lost. The longer the cable and the greater the electrical load, the more significant the voltage drop can become.
On a short cable run, voltage drop may not be noticeable. In a large garden, however, a poorly designed 12V system may result in lights at the far end receiving less voltage than intended.
Possible symptoms include:
● Reduced light output
● Dimming
● Flickering
● Uneven brightness
● Lights failing to operate correctly
How can voltage drop be reduced?
The correct solution depends on the fittings, cable size, load, power supply and layout of the installation.
Options may include:
● Increasing the cable size
● Dividing the garden into several cable runs
● Creating suitable ring circuits where appropriate
● Moving the transformer closer to the lights
● Reducing the load on individual runs
● Using a suitable 12V AC transformer where appropriate
● Using 24V for particularly long distances
In some installations, changing from an LED driver to a suitable 12V AC transformer may help overcome a voltage-drop issue. However, this depends on whether the fittings are compatible with 12V AC.
For larger gardens and long cable runs, 24V may be a better option because the higher operating voltage can reduce the effects of voltage drop.
A transformer or driver is required
A low-voltage system needs a transformer or LED driver to reduce the mains voltage.
This means a suitable position must be found for the power supply. The transformer or driver should be accessible for future maintenance and installed according to its environmental and electrical requirements.
We generally recommend using IP67-rated transformers or LED drivers designed for outdoor use rather than installing indoor electronic transformers inside weatherproof boxes. In our experience, the latter arrangement can lead to premature system failure.
Manufacturers such as EcoPac and Mean Well, along with other reputable suppliers of IP-rated 12V AC transformers, are among the options that may be considered. The correct choice depends on the type of lighting system being installed.
A transformer should never be buried underground. It should be installed in an accessible, well-ventilated location where it can be inspected, tested and replaced if necessary.
Not every 12V fitting uses the same type of power
A light described as 12V will not necessarily operate correctly from every 12V power supply.
Some fittings require 12V AC.
Some require 12V DC.
Others can operate from either AC or DC.
LED tape will generally require a suitable DC LED driver. Inline 12V AC-to-12V DC converters are also available, as are newer types of LED tape that can operate from both AC and DC.
Always check the manufacturer’s specification before connecting a fitting to a transformer or driver.
4. 12V AC vs 12V DC
AC means alternating current, while DC means direct current.
You do not need to understand all the electrical theory to choose garden lighting, but you do need to know what your fittings require.
What is 12V AC garden lighting?
12V AC garden lighting uses alternating current supplied by a suitable transformer.
Some traditional garden lighting systems use 12V AC, particularly where replaceable MR16 lamps or compatible AC/DC fittings are being used.
A suitable 12V AC transformer may also be useful in some installations where voltage drop is a concern, although the fittings and cable design must still be compatible.
What is 12V DC garden lighting?
12V DC garden lighting uses direct current supplied by an LED driver or suitable DC power supply.
Many modern integrated LED fittings and LED tape systems use 12V DC.
DC systems are common for LED products, but the driver must be correctly matched to the total load and the requirements of the fittings.
Can 12V AC and 12V DC be used interchangeably?
No. 12V AC and 12V DC are not automatically interchangeable.
Some fittings are compatible with both types of supply, but others are designed specifically for one or the other.
Choose the lights first, then make sure the transformer or driver is suitable for those particular fittings.
5. Choosing the Correct Transformer
How big should a 12V transformer be?
To calculate the required transformer size, add together the wattage of every light connected to it.
For example:
10 × 4W garden lights = 40W total load
The transformer must be capable of supplying this load.
However, we do not recommend operating a transformer continuously at its absolute maximum capacity. Leaving spare capacity reduces stress on the unit and gives you some flexibility if you decide to add another light later.
If the total lighting load is approximately 50W, we would not normally choose a 50W transformer. We would allow at least 10% spare capacity and move to the next suitable size.
Always follow the manufacturer’s loading requirements for the particular transformer or LED driver being used.
We still come across transformers installed more than 20 years ago that remain in excellent working order. Choosing the correct transformer and installing it properly can make a significant difference to the lifespan of a low-voltage garden lighting system.
6. 12V vs 24V Garden Lighting
Is 12V or 24V better for garden lighting?
There is no single answer that works for every garden.
For many typical residential gardens, 12V is an excellent choice and provides access to a wide range of fittings.
However, 24V can be particularly useful when cable runs are long. The range of available 24V fittings is not as extensive as the range of 12V products, but 24V may still be the better option for certain installations.
Increasing the operating voltage can help reduce the effects of voltage drop. This is why 24V is sometimes specified for larger gardens or areas a considerable distance from the power supply.
Rather than thinking:
12V is good and 24V is better
we prefer to ask:
Which voltage is most suitable for this particular installation?
For a relatively compact garden, 12V may be ideal.
For a large garden with very long cable runs, 24V may make more sense.
7. Garden Lighting Cable & Voltage Drop
What cable should I use for 12V garden lighting?
Cable choice is extremely important and is sometimes overlooked.
Low voltage does not mean that any small cable can be used. The cable must be suitable for the environment, electrical load and length of the circuit.
We would generally recommend H07RN-F cable for our garden lighting installations. H05RN-F may also be suitable in certain circumstances, but it is not as robust.
Longer runs and higher loads may require a larger cable size to minimise voltage drop.
Garden lighting cable should also be protected against physical damage. Spades, forks, hedge cutters, rodents and general gardening work can all damage an unprotected cable.
Suitable protection may include:
● Flexible conduit
● Straight 20mm black conduit
● Pre-planned ducting
● Appropriate cable routes away from likely digging areas
Where possible, cables should be routed and protected before paths, patios and other hard landscaping are installed.
8. Planning Cable Routes & Ducting
Why should garden lighting cable be installed before landscaping?
Pre-planned ducting beneath paths, patios and other hard landscaping can save considerable time, disruption and expense later.
A useful approach is to imagine that a cable may need to run around the garden to every feature you might want to illuminate.
Any obstacle that could prevent that cable route should ideally be ducted beneath before the landscaping is completed.
It is far easier and cheaper to install an empty duct beneath a new path or patio during construction than to lift finished paving later because somebody decides they would like a light on the other side.
9. Waterproof Garden Lighting Connections
Why are waterproof connections important?
A high-quality light is only as reliable as the system to which it is connected.
Poor connections are one of the most common causes of outdoor lighting problems. Water can eventually enter badly made joints, leading to corrosion, resistance and electrical faults.
Connections should be designed for outdoor use and protected against moisture.
Depending on the system, this may involve:
● Purpose-designed waterproof connectors
● Suitable junction boxes
● Heat-shrink connections
● Crimp connections
● Sealed cable joints
Do not spend hundreds or thousands of pounds on good-quality garden lights and then compromise the installation with cheap or unsuitable connections.
10. IP Ratings & Outdoor Protection
What IP rating should garden lights have?
An IP rating indicates the level of protection an electrical product provides against solids and water.
Outdoor fittings need an IP rating suitable for their location.
A protected wall light beneath a substantial overhang has different environmental demands from an uplight positioned in a flower bed and exposed to heavy rain or temporary submersion.
Recessed ground fittings can face an even more difficult environment because water may collect around them. These fittings require particular care during planning and installation.
They should be installed with suitable drainage, such as a soakaway pit or, at the very least, a route for water to drain away from the fitting during extreme conditions.
Rather than assuming that every outdoor fitting needs exactly the same IP rating, choose a product suitable for the position in which it will be installed.
For exposed garden locations, we generally prefer robust fittings designed specifically for long-term outdoor use.
11. Colour Temperature – 2700K, 3000K & Beyond
What colour temperature is best for garden lighting?
For most residential gardens, our preference is warm white around 2700K.
It creates a softer, warmer appearance and works particularly well with:
● Trees
● Green planting
● Brick
● Stone
● Timber
● Traditional buildings
● Outdoor seating areas
Cooler colour temperatures can be used in contemporary designs, but they may make residential gardens feel harsher.
Even warm white at 3000K can flatten features rather than enhancing their sculptural appearance, depending on the fitting, surface and surrounding environment.
Colour temperature is ultimately a design choice, but 2700K is usually a good starting point for residential garden lighting.
12. Lumens, Wattage & Brightness
How bright should garden lights be?
More light is not necessarily better.
A garden should not look like a football pitch. Some of the best garden lighting effects are created using surprisingly small amounts of light.
The aim is usually to create contrast.
Light one tree and allow the planting beside it to remain darker. Highlight a sculpture. Wash a textured wall with light. Add a small amount of illumination across a path.
The dark areas are just as important as the illuminated ones. A lit tree needs to be framed by darkness for it to stand out.
For small shrubs and planting, a relatively low-output fitting may be sufficient.
Larger trees and architectural features may need more output.
The size, distance, beam angle and colour of the object being illuminated should all influence the choice of fitting.
13. Understanding Beam Angles
Why is beam angle important in garden lighting?
People naturally look at watts and lumens when choosing a light, but beam angle is equally important.
A narrow beam concentrates light into a smaller area and is useful for:
● Tall, narrow trees
● Columns
● Architectural details
● Sculptures
A wider beam spreads light across a larger area and can work well on:
● Broad trees
● Walls
● Large planting areas
● Wide architectural features
Two lights with similar wattage and lumen output can create completely different effects simply because they have different beam angles.
14. Spike Lights vs Recessed Uplights
Which is better: spike lights or recessed uplights?
Both spike lights and recessed uplights have advantages and disadvantages.
Spike lights – advantages
Spike lights are extremely versatile.
They can be moved as plants grow and adjusted to change the direction of the beam. They are particularly useful in planting beds and beneath trees.
Maintenance is also relatively straightforward because the complete fitting remains accessible.
As a general guide, an average installation may consist of approximately 70–80% spike lights.
Spike lights – disadvantages
The fitting remains visible above ground and can potentially be knocked or moved by gardeners, children or animals.
Spike lights also need to be positioned carefully to avoid glare.
Recessed uplights – advantages
Recessed fittings provide a clean appearance because most of the fitting is hidden below ground level.
They work particularly well around patios, paths, driveways and architectural areas where a spike fitting would look out of place.
Recessed uplights – disadvantages
Drainage and installation become much more important.
A recessed fitting may spend much of its life surrounded by wet ground, so both the quality of the fitting and the outdoor lighting installation need to be suitable for that environment.
Recessed fittings are also less convenient to reposition if the garden changes.
Our rule of thumb is that we mainly use recessed fittings in lawns where a light needs to be installed flush with the ground so the lawn can be mowed. Otherwise, we generally use spike spotlights.
15. Series vs Parallel Garden Lighting
Should garden lights be wired in series or parallel?
For many low-voltage garden lighting installations, we prefer a parallel constant-voltage system.
One important advantage is that if an individual light fails, the other lights can normally continue operating.
Parallel systems are also generally straightforward to alter, expand and maintain.
Constant-current series systems have their own advantages, particularly for certain specialist fittings and longer runs, and can provide excellent performance when correctly designed.
For many residential gardens where flexibility and future maintenance are important, parallel low-voltage systems are particularly practical.
16. Installing 12V Garden Lighting Yourself
Can I install 12V garden lighting myself?
Some plug-and-play low-voltage garden lighting systems are designed to make installation easier for homeowners.
They can be a good option for someone who wants a relatively simple lighting system without designing an installation completely from scratch.
When installing a plug-and-play system, take your time. Mistakes are possible, particularly if it is your first outdoor lighting installation.
We recommend ordering slightly more than you think you will need, provided unused items can be returned. This gives you flexibility during installation and allows you to test different positions before finalising the layout.
It is important to remember that the system still receives its power from the mains supply.
The three-pin plug-in transformer supplied with our system should be protected by an RCD or RCBO at some point in the electrical installation. The appropriate protective device should be selected and installed in accordance with current UK requirements.
Any 230V electrical work must be carried out correctly and in accordance with current UK electrical requirements.
If you are uncertain about any part of the mains electrical installation, use a suitably qualified electrician.
17. Common Garden Lighting Mistakes
Using too many lights
Good garden lighting is not about illuminating everything. Leaving areas dark creates depth and makes illuminated features stand out.
Choosing lights that are too powerful
A smaller fitting positioned correctly can often produce a better effect than a very powerful light.
Ignoring voltage drop
Long cable runs need to be considered during the design stage, not after the lights have been installed.
Using the wrong transformer or driver
Always check whether the fitting requires 12V AC, 12V DC or is compatible with both.
Making poor waterproof connections
A weak connection can compromise an otherwise excellent lighting installation.
Failing to protect cables
Gardeners and garden tools are surprisingly effective at finding buried lighting cables.
Positioning lights only during daylight
Always test lighting at night before finalising the positions.
A light that appears perfectly positioned during the day can produce a completely different effect after dark.
Forgetting about future growth
Plants and trees do not stay the same size.
Think about how the garden may look in two, five or ten years.
18. Is 12V Garden Lighting Worth It?
For many residential gardens, 12V low-voltage garden lighting is a safe, flexible and reliable option.
It provides access to a wide range of outdoor lighting fittings and can be easier to expand and maintain than some alternative systems.
However, the system must be properly designed. The transformer, cable size, connections, circuit layout, voltage drop, fitting positions and installation method all affect the final result.
Garden lighting works best when it is treated as a complete system rather than simply a collection of individual lights.
19. Frequently Asked Questions
How much does 12V garden lighting cost?
The cost depends on the number and type of fittings, transformer or driver, cable, connectors, controls, installation method and whether landscaping work is required.
A small plug-and-play system may cost considerably less than a professionally designed installation using multiple circuits, premium fittings and buried ducting.
How many lights can I connect to one transformer?
The answer depends on the transformer’s rated output, the total wattage of the fittings, the manufacturer’s loading requirements and the cable layout.
The number of lights alone is not enough to determine whether a transformer is suitable. Ten 2W lights create a very different load from ten 10W lights.
How far can I run 12V garden lighting cable?
There is no single maximum distance for every installation.
The practical distance depends on the cable size, total load, fitting type, voltage, circuit layout and acceptable voltage drop.
A short run with a small load may work well using one cable size, while a longer run or heavier load may require a larger cable, multiple circuits or a 24V system.
Can 12V garden lighting be left on all night?
Yes, provided the system has been designed, installed and protected correctly and the fittings are suitable for continuous operation.
However, leaving every light on all night may not be necessary or desirable. Timers, photocells, smart controls or separate lighting circuits can reduce energy use and allow different areas of the garden to operate at different times.
Can 12V garden lighting be controlled by a timer, photocell or smart switch?
Many systems can be controlled using timers, photocells, smart plugs, smart relays or dedicated lighting controls, provided the control equipment is compatible with the transformer or driver.
Readers may also want to control different areas of the garden independently.
Can 12V garden lighting be connected to solar panels?
Solar garden lights and mains-powered 12V garden lighting are different types of systems.
A standard 12V garden lighting installation should not be connected directly to a solar panel without a correctly designed battery, charge controller, inverter or compatible low-voltage power system.
For reliable illumination and longer operating periods, a mains-powered low-voltage system is usually more practical for permanent garden lighting.
Can 12V garden lighting be used in water features or ponds?
Only fittings specifically designed and certified for use in or near water should be used.
The required product, installation method and electrical protection depend on whether the fitting is outside the water, near the edge or fully submerged.
Pond and water feature lighting should be treated as a specialist installation rather than assuming that any IP-rated 12V fitting is suitable.
Can 12V garden lighting be used for security lighting?
12V lighting can provide useful low-level security illumination, particularly around paths, gates, entrances and vulnerable areas.
However, it may not replace a dedicated security light where a high level of illumination, motion detection or camera integration is required.
A well-designed system can combine attractive garden lighting with practical security lighting without making the garden feel overlit.
How do I stop garden lights from causing glare?
Glare can be reduced by positioning fittings carefully, hiding or shielding the light source, aiming beams away from windows and seating areas and choosing suitable beam angles.
Spike lights should not normally be positioned where people will look directly into the lamp.
The fitting should illuminate the feature rather than the viewer’s eyes.
How do I maintain 12V garden lighting?
Maintenance may include cleaning lenses, removing leaves and planting from around fittings, checking connections, inspecting cable routes, repositioning spike lights and replacing damaged or failed fittings.
A yearly inspection is particularly useful after winter, landscaping work or periods of heavy gardening.
What should I do if one garden light stops working?
First check whether the problem affects one fitting or the entire circuit.
If only one light has failed, inspect the lamp or fitting, connector and nearby cable.
If several lights have stopped working, check the transformer or driver, timer or control equipment, circuit connections and any signs of cable damage.
Always isolate the mains supply before carrying out work on the transformer or mains side of the installation. If the cause is not obvious, use a suitably qualified electrician or lighting professional.
Can garden lighting be installed after landscaping is complete?
Yes, but installation may be more disruptive and expensive if cables need to cross patios, paths, walls or other hard landscaping.
Where possible, install ducting or spare cable routes before landscaping is completed.
If the garden is already finished, cable routes may need to follow borders, lawn edges or other areas where disturbance can be minimised.
Can I mix different brands of 12V garden lights?
Different brands may be used together if their voltage, AC or DC requirements, wattage, connectors, dimming requirements and control systems are compatible.
However, connectors are not necessarily interchangeable, even when the fittings use the same nominal voltage.
Mixing products can also create differences in colour temperature, brightness, beam quality and appearance.
Do 12V garden lights need an earth connection?
The answer depends on the construction and electrical classification of the fitting.
Many low-voltage garden lights are Class III products designed to operate from a separate extra-low-voltage supply and do not require an earth connection at the fitting.
Other equipment may have different requirements.
Always follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions and do not assume that every low-voltage product is wired in the same way.
What happens to 12V garden lighting during a power cut?
A standard mains-powered 12V garden lighting system will normally switch off during a power cut.
Should I use separate circuits for different areas of the garden?
Separate circuits can make a system easier to control, maintain and expand.
For example, paths, entertaining areas, trees, front garden lighting and security lighting could be controlled independently.
Dividing the system can also help manage cable lengths, voltage drop and transformer loading.
The best arrangement depends on the garden layout and the desired control strategy.
What information should I provide when asking for garden lighting advice?
Useful information may include:
● Photographs taken during the day
● A garden plan or sketch
● The approximate garden dimensions
● The position of the house, paths, patios and boundaries
● The location of trees, planting and architectural features
● Any planned landscaping work
● The areas you want to highlight
● The location of an available mains supply
● Whether you want timers, sensors or smart controls
● Your preferred budget and installation approach
f experience in outdoor lighting design and installation.
20. Garden Lighting Glossary
12V
12 volts. A commonly used extra-low voltage for garden lighting. A transformer or suitable power supply is used to reduce the property’s mains voltage to 12V.
24V
24 volts. Another low-voltage option for garden lighting. It can be particularly useful on longer cable runs because voltage drop can be easier to manage than with 12V.
230V
The nominal mains electricity supply voltage used in UK homes.
AC – Alternating Current
An electrical current that repeatedly changes direction. Traditional transformers commonly provide an AC output.
DC – Direct Current
Electrical current that flows in one direction. Many integrated LED fittings and LED tape products operate using DC power.
AC/DC Compatible
A light or lamp designed to operate from either an AC or DC supply at the specified voltage.
Beam Angle
The angle at which light leaves a fitting. A narrow beam produces concentrated light, while a wider beam spreads the light across a larger area.
Colour Temperature
The appearance or colour of white light, measured in Kelvin (K). For residential garden lighting, our preference is generally around 2700K.
Constant Current
A type of LED power system designed to supply a fixed electrical current.
Constant Voltage
A power system designed to maintain a specified voltage, such as 12V or 24V.
Driver / LED Driver
An electrical device used to provide the correct power to LED lighting.
Duct / Ducting
Protective tubing installed to provide a route for cables.
H05RN-F Cable
A flexible rubber cable suitable for certain applications but generally less robust than H07RN-F.
H07RN-F Cable
A tough, flexible rubber cable commonly used for outdoor and demanding applications.
IP Rating
IP stands for Ingress Protection. The rating indicates how well electrical equipment is protected against solids and water.
IP67
An IP rating providing a high level of protection against dust and temporary immersion in water under specified test conditions.
Kelvin – K
The measurement used to describe the colour temperature of light.
2200K – very warm, amber appearance
2700K – warm white
3000K – slightly cooler warm white
4000K – cooler, more neutral white
LED
Light Emitting Diode. LED technology produces light using considerably less power than older traditional lamps.
Lumen – lm
A measurement of the amount of visible light produced by a lamp or fitting.
MR16
A common type of reflector lamp frequently used in low-voltage garden spotlights and uplights.
Parallel Wiring
A method of connecting lights where each fitting receives power across the supply. If one light fails, the others can normally continue operating.
RCD – Residual Current Device
An electrical safety device designed to disconnect the electricity supply when certain leakage currents are detected.
RCBO
A protective device combining residual-current protection with overcurrent protection.
Recessed Uplight
A light installed partially or completely into the ground so that most of the fitting is hidden.
Ring Circuit
A circuit arrangement where the cable forms a loop back towards its supply point.
Series Wiring
A circuit where fittings are connected sequentially in the electrical path.
Soakaway
A drainage area designed to allow water to disperse into the surrounding ground.
Spike Light
An adjustable garden light mounted on a spike that is pushed into soil or planting beds.
Transformer
A device used to change an AC voltage. In a traditional 12V AC garden lighting system, a transformer reduces the mains supply to approximately 12V AC.
Voltage
The electrical potential difference within a circuit, measured in volts.
Voltage Drop
The reduction in voltage that occurs as electricity travels along a cable.
Watt – W
A measurement of electrical power.
For example:
10 × 4W lights = 40W total load
Waterproof Connector
A connector specifically designed to protect an electrical connection against moisture when installed correctly.
21. Free Garden Lighting Advice
Need help designing your 12V garden lighting system?
If you are unsure which lights to use, what size transformer you need, how to manage voltage drop or whether 12V or 24V would be better for your project, we are happy to help.
You can send us photographs of your garden or, even better, a garden plan showing the main trees, paths, seating areas and features you would like to illuminate.
If you are having landscaping work carried out, or are planning to do so, think about the lighting before paths or hard landscaping are installed.
Pre-planned ducting beneath paths, patios and other hard landscaping can save considerable time, disruption and expense later.
We can help you choose suitable fittings and provide practical advice on planning your low-voltage garden lighting system before you buy.
Get in touch for free garden lighting advice from people with more than 20 years of experience in outdoor lighting design and installation.
